The jacket's lining assembly is very simple.
Sew the center front lining (piece R) to the side front lining (piece S).
Press seam allowance open.
Repeat for the other side.
OPTIONAL: add pockets in a style of your choice. On our pattern, we have included recommended pocket placements for ½" by 5" welt or double-welt pockets.
Depending on your physique, you may wish to move the pocket placements, and those with larger hands may wish to widen the pocket opening, but these should at least be a good place to start. The pocket should begin immediately below the breast, and the pocket pouch should not extend into the hem facings.
We recommend using the shell fabric (black wool gabardine or black cotton twill) for the welts, and any fabric should do nicely for the pocket pouches; we like to use the black lining fabric, but white muslin would work well, too.
Sew center back lining (piece S) to the side back lining (piece T). Press seam allowance open.
Sew the two back assemblies together along the center back. Press seam allowance open.
Sew the front lining assemblies to the back lining assembly at the shoulders. Press seam allowance open.
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| (Pictured with pockets) |
Sew the sleeve linings (piece Q) to the body assembly at the armscye. Press seam allowance toward sleeves.
Sew the sides and sleeves closed, matching edges and seam lines. Press the seam allowances open.
The front center of the jacket's lining will be left open for now; it will get sewn in later.
TIP: Rather than pressing the lining seam allowances open, you may instead wish to serge them together.
TIP: The lining panels have our standard ⅜" seam allowance, but you may wish to taper them to ¼" an inch or two from the beginnings and ends of the seam lines to give the lining body some additional fullness and avoid any pulling/contorting/etc. of the garment body once the two are "married" later.
Press the bottom of the sleeve linings upward ⅜" toward the wrong side.
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