Comparison to the DS9/NEM Duty Jumpsuit

that, unlike the VOY duty jacket, the "captain jacket" was NOT simply the top half of its counterpart, the DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit? 

That is a common misconception; the two garments actually had several major differences. The jacket shared many stylistic characteristics with the DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit (which, in turn, shared many traits with its predecessor, the VOY duty jumpsuit), but it did have some distinct features that set it apart. 

We'll start with what the two garments had in common.

First, unlike the immediately preceding Starfleet uniforms (what we call the "VOY duty jumpsuits") first introduced in Deep Space Nine, featured in Generations, and worn throughout all of Voyager, the yoke was not division-colored and "flat"; both garments had a gray wool elastique/cavalry twill yoke that extended onto the sleeves and was vertically quilted in precise increments of ¾" - in other words, the quilt lines were all ¾" and parallel.

The Sisko, displeased with the plainness of his early uniform.

"Now that's what I'm talking about."

Both the DS9/NEM "captain jacket" and the DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit yokes were embellished with ⅜" gray wool gabardine bias trim along the necklines, front openings, yoke lower edges, and shoulder point lower edges. 

The wool gabardine appeared to be the same as that used for the jacket body, pants, duty jumpsuits, etc., but dyed to match the gray wool elastique/cavalry twill of the yoke, and cut on the bias - essentially custom-made bias tape. 

However, the ⅜" yoke trim was applied in a different manner on the jackets and jumpsuits - more on that later!

This bias trim apparently reacted quite differently under different lightings and shone quite differently when shot by different cameras - much more than one might expect.

Sometimes, for instance, it possessed a notable sheen, almost like sateen or silk might - making it easily distinguishable from the yoke itself. This was most commonly seen in promotional photos.

The ⅜" yoke bias trim was very easy to distinguish from the yoke under certain lighting conditions:

First Contact (DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit pictured)

Other times, there was but a subtle apparent difference in the color/lighting of the two; the trim just barely stood out as different.

There were times yet still (mostly in the television franchise on Deep Space Nine) that the trim and yoke fabrics were practically indistinguishable. 

DS9, 5x26 "Call to Arms"

DS9, 7x18 "Til Death Do Us Part"

DS9, 7x25 "What You Leave Behind"

Although construction standards regarding the quilt lines, yoke trim, and topstitching would not be established/refined until these uniforms' final outing in Nemesis (and even those, while far superior in coordination, consistency, and attention to detail, were not as thorough as they could have been), we can retrospectively say that, aside from the design differences of the neckline trim, the same quilt line/yoke trim/topstitching standards applied to both the DS9/NEM "captain jackets" and DS9/NEM duty jumpsuits. 

In other words, the yokes were made more or less the same way - but more on that later in our analysis! 

Nemesis

As with the DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit, the DS9/NEM "captain jacket" ideally had a neckline nested with that of the division shirt.

Both the DS9/NEM "captain jacket" and the DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit had eight body panels (center front, side front, side back, and center back), a waistband on the side body panels (except the Sisko versions - more on that later), and sleeve cuffs comprised of two raised bands and a division stripe.

However, there the similarity between the DS9/NEM "captain jacket" and duty jumpsuit ends.

Now we'll take a close look at this "captain jacket's" construction and details that made it so unique.


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