May 2, 2015

Analysis, part 1 - Yoke

NOTE: All of the following standards are based on the stylistic refinements of the Nemesis "captain jacket"; there was considerable experimentation and variation over the years, and before the jacket was finalized to what was arguably its ideal level of consistency, coordination, and attention to detail, those previous versions often contained various "imperfections" by later standards (most notably in regard to alignment as it pertains to quilt lines and topstitching).

"Let's just take it from the top."


The yoke on the DS9/NEM "captain jacket" was considerably deeper than that of the DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit yoke - at least an inch, sometimes more.

Nemesis


The Sisko had a particularly deep yoke. 

DS9, 7x25 "What You Leave Behind"

DS9, 7x18
"Til Death Do Us Part"

The yoke depth difference is easy to see on the Nog DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit and Picard DS9/NEM "captain jacket" we previously shared:



The real construction detail of this uniform was in the relationship between the quilting/topstitching and the rest of the upper garment, and its precise alignments in that regard made it a masterpiece of coordinated detail. 

Everything was determined with the quilt lines in mind, as well as constructed and/or adjusted in increments of quilt lines or half quilt-lines (¾" or ⅜", respectively). 


The edge of the neck opening, for instance, fell exactly on a quilt line or mid-quilt line at the shoulder seam (with the ⅜" neckline trim meeting the shoulder seam on the next quilt line or mid-quilt line, but more on that later):

Mid-quilt line
Quilt line


Likewise, the mitered corner of the front opening intersected a quilt line (on the Sisko and Picard NEM versions, that is), and the distance from an uppermost corner of the trim to the bottom corner (in the middle of the jacket) was one quilt line, or ¾", as said bottom corners are where the middlemost quilt lines would fall: 

(The variations of this front opening will be examined later in this analysis.) 


The quilt lines on the front and back yokes met their counterparts at the shoulder seam and aligned perfectly. 

Yeah, that's how I felt during Nemesis, too ... 
DS9, 7x8 "The Siege of AR-558"


No comments:

Post a Comment