Tutorial, part 17a - Zipper Trim and Neckline Trim (Sisko Variant)

The process for attaching the zipper trim, neckline trim, and zipper is similar for each of the four versions but different enough to merit separate instructions.


Sisko variant (for the other versions, skip to part 17b)

The Sisko variant is the simplest and easiest of the four versions in this regard.

First, using your quilting/walking foot and gray thread, sew the neckline trim (piece Y) to the neckline in the same manner you would sew double-fold bias tape. 

Place a piece of zipper trim (piece Z) on top of the left center front body panel, right sides facing, with the top edge of the zipper trim flush with the top edge of the yoke trim. The zipper trim should extend 1" beyond the bottom of the jacket. 

Starting at the bottom of the jacket, using your regular sewing foot and black thread, sew the zipper trim to the jacket, stopping roughly 2" from the top of the length of trim. 

Press the top portion of the zipper trim downward so that the fold is flush with the bottom of the yoke trim.

Place the yoke zipper trim (piece AA) on the left yoke and folded zipper, right sides facing, with the edge of the neckline trim and the edge of the zipper trim flush. The yoke zipper trim should overhang the top of the neckline by 1". 

Pin the two pieces of trim together, then sew them together along the crease in the zipper trim. 

Confirm that the trim seam is flush with the yoke/body seam. 

You want it to look like this: 

Not this: 

Once you're satisfied with the alignment, clip the seam allowances down to ⅛" and press them open. 

Pin in place, the continue the zipper trim stitch from where you left off to just above the trim seam (catching the trim's seam allowances), then stop. 

Using your quilting/walking foot and gray thread, stitch the yoke zipper trim to the yoke. 

Fold the entire length of trim (both jacket and yoke) over, then press. 

Fold the top portion of the trim (the 1" that overhangs the top of the neckline) downward, then press. 

Fold the entire length of trim it again, underneath the jacket assembly, then press. 

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